Seeding rates by grass type
Rates are pounds of seed per 1,000 sq ft, compiled from university extension guidance. “New lawn” assumes bare, prepared soil; “overseed” assumes seeding into existing turf.
| Grass | New lawn | Overseed | Germination |
|---|
Getting your money’s worth from the bag
Seed fails from bad contact, not bad math. For overseeding, mow short, rake or core-aerate first (our calendar shows when), spread in two perpendicular half-rate passes, then keep the top ½″ of soil damp until germination — that’s daily light watering for one to three weeks depending on species. A thin layer of compost from the topdressing calculator over the seed noticeably improves strike rate.
Check the label before buying: a quality bag lists purity and germination percentages and little or no “other crop” and weed seed. Cheap blends pad weight with annual ryegrass and coated filler.
Frequently asked questions
Why do seeding rates differ so much between grasses?
Seed size. Tall fescue seed is big — you need 8–10 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. Kentucky bluegrass seed is tiny (about 1–2 million seeds per pound), so 2–3 lbs covers the same ground. Centipede is tinier still. The rate on our calculator is per species, from university extension guidance.
Is more seed better?
No — overseeding beyond the recommended rate produces crowded, weak seedlings that compete with each other and invite damping-off disease. Hit the recommended rate with good seed-to-soil contact and even coverage instead; two perpendicular spreader passes at half rate each beat one heavy pass.
Why can’t I find St. Augustine seed?
St. Augustine doesn’t produce commercially viable seed — it’s established from sod, plugs, or sprigs. If that’s your grass, use the sod calculator instead.
When should I put this seed down?
Cool-season grasses: early fall, 45–60 days before your first fall frost (spring is the backup). Warm-season grasses: late spring, 2–4 weeks after your last frost. Get your local window from the lawn calendar lookup.