Lawn Care Calendars by State

The same job — overseeding, pre-emergent, the last feeding — can be six weeks apart between Minnesota and Georgia. These calendars use your town's own NOAA 1991–2020 climate records instead of a national average.

In a hurry? The lawn calendar lookup jumps straight from your ZIP code to your windows.

Cool-season states

Cool-season grasses grow hardest in spring and fall, slow down in summer heat, and stay green late into fall. The year’s biggest project — aeration and overseeding — belongs in early fall, and the most important feeding does too.

AlaskaColoradoConnecticutIdahoIllinoisIndianaIowaMaineMassachusettsMichiganMinnesotaMontanaNebraskaNew HampshireNew JerseyNew YorkNorth DakotaOhioOregonPennsylvaniaRhode IslandSouth DakotaUtahVermontWashingtonWisconsinWyoming

Transition zone states

The transition zone is too hot in summer for easy cool-season lawns and too cold in winter for easy warm-season ones — both are common, so the calendar depends on which grass you actually have. Identify your grass first; each family runs on an opposite schedule.

ArizonaArkansasCaliforniaDelawareDistrict of ColumbiaKansasKentuckyMarylandMissouriNevadaNew MexicoNorth CarolinaOklahomaTennesseeVirginiaWest Virginia

Warm-season states

Warm-season grasses wake up after the last frost, peak in midsummer heat, and go dormant (brown, not dead) after the first fall frost. Almost everything — seeding, feeding, aerating — happens from late spring through midsummer.

AlabamaFloridaGeorgiaHawaiiLouisianaMississippiSouth CarolinaTexas

How these calendars are built

Every location's calendar is anchored to its median last spring frost and first fall frost from the NOAA 1991–2020 U.S. Climate Normals — real station records, not estimates. Task windows are then offset from those anchors using standard university extension guidance: cool-season overseeding lands 45–60 days before first fall frost, warm-season establishment 2–4 weeks after last frost, pre-emergent as soil approaches the 55°F germination threshold, and so on. Where the true driver is soil temperature (pre-emergent especially), the pages say so — the calendar gets you to the right two or three weeks, and a soil thermometer nails the day.